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What happens during an EV charger install appointment?
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@WizzyWigg it's purely just for my own interest I've already hounded @Lee_EONNext on his thoughts π
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@DebF_EONNext Ah, fully understood. π. All my neighbours are ICE users. EVs and chargers are rarer than hens teeth in our area. π΄
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I assess how many hours I need to charge for, aiming for around 80% charge (unless I'm going to use its full range the next day) and schedule it to turn on at midnight and off after the required period.
How on earth could it continue charging if the power from the socket is off? π -
There is a reason for the signalling protocols in place for a home EVSE that graciously signals the end of supply and allows the charger to shutdown and stop at a zero voltage crossing. -
How you can use this without throwing a switch I fail to understand - no fry-ups yet in the past two years π
Last edited by geoffers; 13-03-25 at 19:54.
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The car needs to shutdown its onboard charger before any switches are thrown and circuits broken whilst current flowing.
Ideally the EVSE provides that signal or the user stops the charge in the vehicle (or via the vehicle app).
As a backstop, on a Type-1 vehicle (don't know what the Merc is), pressing the button to release the charging socket initiates the end of charge.
On a Type-2, the short proximity pilot pin attempts the same thing hoping that it takes longer than the 20ms needed by the OBC to shutdown before the live pins are disconnected.
Edit:
I've found an online manual for an 'aptiv' branded EVSE as supplied with some Mercedes PHEVs. It has these nuggets:
Prohibition:
Do not unplug the power plug
during the charging process
Do not use extension cords, cable
drums, multiple sockets, (travel)
adapters, timers, etc.
Operate the charging cable directly
connected to a fixed grid socket only
To interrupt the charging process,
unlock the vehicle charging inlet
and remove the vehicle connector
All sensible precautions I'd expect to see in any 'granny charger' instructions and there to prevent damage to the OBC. There will be protection for the odd unavoidable event but these (typically MOVs) have finite energy absorption and will give up the ghost and the next event will probably be IGBTs going up in expensive smoke.Last edited by rwh202; 13-03-25 at 20:22. Reason: Extra info
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As someone said here recently "every day's a school day" - it's survived 2 years doing it the wrong way, so probably fortunate we had this conversation! πLast edited by geoffers; 14-03-25 at 08:17.
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This is a very good video which describes the 10 most important points to consider when having an EV charge-point installed : it's not as simple as some may expect π€
In my case it looks as though I'm going to have to get the DNO to replace my incoming supply as I'm currently on a "Looped Service" shared with my neighbour.
Then, although my household consumer unit is up to the latest spec I'll probably need a separate dedicated EV consumer unit, either incorporating or in conjunction with a Surge Protection Device(SPD)
Also there will be the trunking/cabling required to run the supply cable out the back to the garage itself. I'll probably also run an ethernet cable for the charge point, rather than relying on wifi signal (which although probably OK, it's much better to have a hard-wired connection)
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@geoffers
A bit overkill for a PHEV which doesn't need anything more pokey than a conventional 13A socket, but a wise investment in future-proofing if you decide to go all-electric in future π.
It's not an option for me and likely never will be as my incoming supply ain't man enough for an EV (and cannot be upgraded past 63A). Plus it requires a smart meter, and that's never going to happen round here.Don't shoot me, I'm only the piano player. I DON'T work for or on behalf of EON.Next, but am willing to try and help if I can. Not on mains gas, mobile network or mains drainage. House heated almost entirely by baby dragons.