Sorry for the wait! My forum permissions have recently been modified, which means I no longer have to go through any pre-moderation or pre-approval checks. The only reason for the delay is because I've been a bit busy this week with Christmas and all that. XD
Hmm... This could be fun...
Getting an IHD to display Economy 7 stuff has always been a weird edge case and it's better to check the meter itself if possible. If you can show me photos of your meter, I can help you with that, on the house.
But if you'd like to, then I don't see any harm in performing a Creep Test and a Load Test. These should help to confirm whether:
- Your meter is doing Economy 7 properly (or at all!)
- Whether your meter is faulty and underclocking/overclocking your usage
The Load Test is definitely the easier one to do and photos of your meter would probably help me to confirm it as well.
For this one, simply observe the meter during the E7 Off-Peak hours and double check that the Night register is the one that's spinning - the Day register should be stopped during this period. Likewise, do the same during the day within E7 Peak hours to confirm the Day register is spinning and the Night register is stopped. If this isn't happening, something might not be working properly. Please make a note of the times you do this test as well, since it helps me to make sure it's not just a case of you getting the clocks mixed up. It's also worth bearing in mind that most Smart Meters do NOT adjust for BST, so they can appear to be an "hour out" at certain times of the year.
As for the Creep Test, I'm actually going to copy/paste this one from another thread I was in recently. It's a lot of typing otherwise and I'm short on time today. Normally I like to type it up manually each time and mix things up a bit to keep it fresh, but I hope you're OK with this anyway.
Before you get started, I strongly recommend only doing this test during daylight hours for your own safety and you may want to have a torch handy just in case. Please also make sure to safely shut down and turn off any sensitive electronics and gadgets like your computers, TVs, games consoles, Wi-Fi Router, Smart Home gadgets and anything else that might be affected by having the power suddenly go off. You can leave the fridge/freezer on though and keeping a couple of lights on is helpful so that you know when you're done.
If you're happy to go ahead, here's what to do. These steps might sound a bit tricky as I generally copy/paste them directly from what Blastoise186 gave me, but they should work.
- Locate the electric meter and fuse box/consumer unit
- Take a quick meter reading and note it down - you'll need it later
- As you're on Prepayment, please make sure you've got some credit and you're not in Emergency Credit - otherwise it can disrupt the test. If you don't have much left, now is a good time to top-up!
- Turn off the power to the entire house using your consumer unit - it'll only be for a few minutes so don't worry about being off-supply for a long time
- Observe your electric meter for about five minutes. the red metrology LED (or the spinning disc in older meters) should stop completely and the meter should not clock any usage after the first 30 seconds or so
- After five minutes, take another meter reading and note it down
- Turn the power back on
- Compare the two readings you took at the start and finish of the test
If the meter is not faulty, the two readings should be about the same. However, if they're massively different and/or you noticed the metrology LED (or spinning disc) continue to run and/or the meter was still clocking usage despite the power being off, then there's almost certainly a fault with the meter itself. In this case, you'll want to request a Meter Accuracy Test. It'll cost around £160 upfront and you'll get this back if the meter is confirmed to be faulty, as well as having the meter replaced and a refund issued for the lost credit once E.On has managed to figure out how much it's thrown into a black hole. Please bear in mind that the test fee is not refunded if the meter is found to be working correctly. With that being said, if it failed the Creep Test then that's already a very good sign that the meter probably is faulty - the MAT is still required to make it official but doing the Creep Test first might save you wasting £160.
And now it's back to me actually writing this directly.
As for the other points you've mentioned, I'll have to go away and think about those some more. It sounds like there's several issues at play here, and pinning it down may be a little tricky. I'll let you know if I can think of anything else.
Hope this helps. Let me know the results of the Creep Test and Load Test and I'll try to advise further.
Oh, and sorry the reply is so long! Blastoise186 is an evil genius and knows a lot about this stuff, but he's not exactly brilliant at condensing it down and I'm still learning so I've not yet tried to do so. We're working on it though! XD