Air Source Heat Pump and Solar Panels

  • retrotecchie's Avatar
    Level 92
    @meldrewreborn

    Also the notion of turning all the rads down as low as possible is a bit of a daft one. The boiler will be most efficient at a particular flow/return differential and if the rads are set so low that they are not transferring enough heat when the boiler is firing, then all the energy from the boiler firing is just going to waste in the heat exchanger in a non-condensing boiler rather than actually being circulated around the house. Sure, if you have thermostatic valves then they can regulate the amount of heat produced in each room to an extent, but it's actually almost twice as efficient to have the rads running a bit more open and to just lower the boiler output temperature.
    Don't shoot me, I'm only the piano player. I DON'T work for or on behalf of EON.Next, but am willing to try and help if I can. Not on mains gas, mobile network or mains drainage. House heated almost entirely by baby dragons.
  • meldrewreborn's Avatar
    Level 91
    @retrotecchie

    Agreed. But that’s not my policy but is the OP’s!

    I’ve a pipe thermostat to facilitate pump run on after thermostat shut off so that valuable heat stays in the house .
    Current Eon Next and EDF customer, ex Zog and Symbio. Don't think dual fuel saves money and don't like smart meters. Chronologically Gifted. If I offend let me know by private message, but I’ll continue to express my opinions nonetheless.
  • Starling's Avatar
    Level 6
    @meldrewreborn

    Also the notion of turning all the rads down as low as possible is a bit of a daft one. The boiler will be most efficient at a particular flow/return differential and if the rads are set so low that they are not transferring enough heat when the boiler is firing, then all the energy from the boiler firing is just going to waste in the heat exchanger in a non-condensing boiler rather than actually being circulated around the house. Sure, if you have thermostatic valves then they can regulate the amount of heat produced in each room to an extent, but it's actually almost twice as efficient to have the rads running a bit more open and to just lower the boiler output temperature.

    @retrotecchie
    Just to clarify, I had the boiler turned right down too. I was only using it 2 hours a day because of the cost. I kept the valve fully open on the rad in the rear reception room and more open in the bathroom. I tried the boiler set to half (it doesn't have a temperature setting, just +/-) and opened some of the valves more, but it was costing about £12 a day (which I really can't afford).

    I'm just trying to work out if I should stick with my knackered old boiler or change the system to a heat pump and solar panels really.
  • retrotecchie's Avatar
    Level 92
    @Starling

    You would be better off just getting a replacement boiler. Better still, get a competent GasSafe registered plumber to give your current system a thorough service. There's no way any heating system should be costing anything like that to run. My central heating run for two hours a day, keeping an uninsulated 1840 stone-built cottage at a fairly constant 16°C all winter and works out at about £4 a day. Obviously, gas is more expensive than heating oil for the same amount of energy, but only by about 20%. There is something seriously wrong with your system!
  • Starling's Avatar
    Level 6
    Fitting a heat pump is not going to improve the EPC any as the current EPC regime is based on energy costs, and gas is the preferred fuel. When the new EPC regime which is still being formulated comes into effect, the emphasis will be on carbon usage instead, so an electric heat pump will be favoured.

    this is a lot of house for one person, and that is the nub of the issue. Because the kitchen (and bathroom above?) is as the back and need to be accessed via the rear room I would suggest making that the preferred room for heating, especially given the bedroom above.
    The gas fires if 100% efficient woul be better to use because of the cost differential compared to electricity. Depending on the design of the gas fires a lot of the heat could be going up the chimney, but unless they are open flame effect they are still likely to be lower cost than a standard electric heater. Remember too that open gas appliances produces a lot of water vapour from combustion so the dehumidifier is a good idea.
    getting a lodger would produce largely tax free income which would more than cover the full heating cost, so it’s not something to discount too readily.

    Thanks for the input, @meldrewreborn. I realise it's a big house for one person, but all the other houses in this price range are in crappy locations round here.
    Yes, that's how I'm living at the moment.....using the back reception room and back bedroom. The back bedroom is a lot smaller than the front one too. And yes, the bathroom (which again is really large!) is above the kitchen. The gas fire is one of those that look like a log burner (it's the only type I could have without getting a lot of extra work done to the fireplace). It has a huge pipe that joins to the chimney liner, so all the surface area of the pipe is exposed in the room. The fireplace is massive too....about 5ft high or so...and wide, so there's plenty of air flow around the fire.
    A lodger isn't possible for several reasons.
  • Starling's Avatar
    Level 6
    @Starling

    You would be better off just getting a replacement boiler. Better still, get a competent GasSafe registered plumber to give your current system a thorough service. There's no way any heating system should be costing anything like that to run. My central heating run for two hours a day, keeping an uninsulated 1840 stone-built cottage at a fairly constant 16°C all winter and works out at about £4 a day. Obviously, gas is more expensive than heating oil for the same amount of energy, but only by about 20%. There is something seriously wrong with your system!

    My house isn't over-looked front or rear, so it's very exposed. I can't imagine putting my heating on for two hours and getting the temperature up to 16°C!! As soon as the heating goes off, the temperature plummets. I have really high ceilings too😢
  • meldrewreborn's Avatar
    Level 91
    @Starling

    if you go for the get pump and solar you will at least save money on your electric bills in the summer months. So I would go for that - they’ll remove you old boiler as part of the process. If you have the gas turned off completely you’ll save on the gas standing charge. If eventually you decide the heat pump isn’t meeting your expectations you can fit a new condensing boiler. While the latter will be at your cost, that was always going to be the case. Then you’ll be future proofed.
  • retrotecchie's Avatar
    Level 92
    @Starling

    If two hours of gas central heating can't get the house up to 16°C, then I absolutely guarantee a heat pump is not a viable option. No way. Not now, not ever. If the temperature plummets after turning any heating off, your house needs insulating badly. Get a survey and get insulation done properly before you even consider investing money on a heat pump or solar panels.

    Last edited by retrotecchie; 08-10-23 at 00:39.
  • retrotecchie's Avatar
    Level 92
    @meldrewreborn

    Any company willing to push them on a property like that without addressing the heat loss issues first just so they can claim the government incentive money....words fail me!