[DebF_EONNext]

Hey everyone 👋

I've bought some new spotlights for the kitchen, 2 sets to be precise. Each spotlight has 3 heads and a maximum of 50W (I promise this isn't a maths exam) I need it to be bright so I can take decent stock images.

The issue I have is that GU10 bulbs aren't exactly low energy. If I get the daylight shade with a wide beam what would be the lowest wattage I should go for to get the maximum brightness but not pay through the roof each month and do my bit for the planet?

I usually just buy the highest wattage for the cheapest price bulb that I can find but I'm trying to be a bit more savvy and think of the longer term 💡I can't really get my head around the difference in wattage between an LED and a halogen bulb, it's all very confusing 😳 so if anyone would like to give me some insight it would be much appreciated!

[geoffers]

@DebF_EONNext - I think it's Lumens not wattage you need as a measure of light output for modern LEDs, so max lumens for min wattage are most efficient

[DebF_EONNext]

@geoffers so a bit like a projector screen then?

[WizzyWigg]

Hi @DebF_EONNext
Here's a little chart that might be of help.

[meldrewreborn]

Some manufacturers get more lumens than other out of a given wattage. Somewhere like B&M have packs of bulb at a tad over £1 each in packs of 3/4, these are what I buy - 9 bulbs in our kitchen! - usually only 6 on and that’s bright enough. But there are other considerations too like beam angle and colour. I’d start with cheap units and see if the results are acceptable. Look for 35w equivalent. My kitchen is 1080 cu ft.

and just because they’re much cheaper to run still switch them off when not in use. You haven’t mentioned whether you use a dimmer switch, but be aware that LEDs need different dimmers to cope with the low consumption and dimmable bulbs too.

[rwh202]

@DebF_EONNext
If this is for photography, then another critical specification is the CRI or Colour Rendering Index. Halogen is a near perfect 98+ so all colours are rendered as if daylight.
At the opposite end of the spectrum (no pun intended) is something like the old fashioned sodium yellow street lights where everything turns monochrome and a red car looks identical to a blue.
LEDs can fall anywhere in between, but aim for > 90 for realistic colours.

[WizzyWigg]

@DebF_EONNext I suppose one should apply "The Inverse Square Law" as part of your decision process.
It could effect the final choice. 🤔

As a light beam travels further from its source, it spreads out over a larger area, and the brightness (intensity) at any given point decreases with the square of the distance.
For example, if you triple the distance, the intensity becomes one-ninth of the original value.

Alternatively @meldrewreborn 's suggestion is good. 👍😂

[DebF_EONNext]

Originally Posted by WizzyWigg

Hi @DebF_EONNext
Here's a little chart that might be of help.

This is really helpful thanks @WizzyWigg

[DebF_EONNext]

@meldrewreborn our kitchen is large too it's a kitchen diner, so we have 6 spotlights and at the other side of the kitchen a main pendant light which only lights up that end of the kitchen! I will have a look in B&M this evening and see what they have 😊

[DebF_EONNext]

Originally Posted by rwh202

@DebF_EONNext
If this is for photography, then another critical specification is the CRI or Colour Rendering Index. Halogen is a near perfect 98+ so all colours are rendered as if daylight.
At the opposite end of the spectrum (no pun intended) is something like the old fashioned sodium yellow street lights where everything turns monochrome and a red car looks identical to a blue.
LEDs can fall anywhere in between, but aim for > 90 for realistic colours.

This is an interesting point as the daylight bulb we have in the pendant light is a colder hue rather than neutral so I think it must have a blue undertone. The pictures don't have to be amazing I just want a natural tone rather than a mirky yellow!